Dingboche (4350m), Nepal - Tues 7th Apr
Everest. An Expedition. Questions abound - how far do you walk, how high do you climb... goals, achievement. But a real expedition is more, an adventure, a journey, an exploration not just of the Khumbu Valley with its spectacular panorama, but for most there's a wider purpose, an inner journey every bit as important and ambitious.
Kathmandu teams with energy, noise and shopping opportunities similar to many Asian cities. Flying to Lukla opens a window into a new land, one without cars, where transport is altogether different - a flight underneath the shadow of the Himalaya where you land on a postage stamp positioned precariously on the side of a fairly vertical runway, slowing down being encouraged by the sheer cliff face at the runway's end.
Packs strapped on, excitement mixed with anxiety, the emotions energised by a wonderfully new culture: the Tibetan prayer flags and the Wind Horse gloriously flapping prayers to the unseen spirits of the mountains, Yuccios loaded high in the lowlands and Yaks in the higher climbs, Lammergeiers (Bearded Vultures) soaring overhead, the amazing blossom and handkerchief trees of the lower valleys, the majestic peaks of the high valleys, the awe inspiring loads carried by the porters, and always the wonderfully open Nepalese people, smiling and demonstrating an integrity rarely experienced in the West. The initial trekking pace, gentle to assist physical acclimatisation, enables an overwhelming sensual avalanche. It's tough mentally. The monotony - view after view after view... each somehow trumping the last.
The first two days undulate through the lower valleys, crossing rivers on fairly unique suspension bridges adorned with prayer flags, every bit as thrilling as Disneyland's best ride. The final uphill struggle to Namche Bazar is lovingly termed "Bastard Hill" by our guide. It provides an encouragement; halfway up there's the first view of the High Peaks, of Everest itself. Cloud and rain enabled our hill to laughingly oblige its name.
Namche is surreal. A village perched on a mountainside, home to the Sherpa people. The morning's gift, a clear sky, allowing the sheer majesty of open curtains on dramatic mountains created overnight. Today's "optional" rest day started with a severe climb for our unaccustomed lungs. The reward a wonderful surprise. The first view... Everest, Lohtse and Ama Dablam. Words are inadequate. A picture seared on the retina and mind for many moons to come.
From Namche to Dingboche is a two day hike. Every step seems special, a fresh view, an even better Kodak moment, and still it builds and builds... You feel like you could watch the Big Peaks evolve for ever, the clouds moving in and out, waterfalls tumbling, prayer flags drumming in the wind, the glaciers defying gravity in saraks, and the peaceful melody of the Yaks, bells around their necks adding a choral accompaniment to the visual masterpiece of the Khumbu.
This expedition is more than special, it's real. Rolphe Oostra and Jo Bradshaw will go on to summit Everest and Lohtse during May, a hardcore dual challenge requiring ~36 hours in the death zone above 8000m, more than twice the norm. It's a unique privilege to listen to their stories, imbibe the mountaineering culture and folklore of the Khumbu, and be a small part of their preparation. Whatever anxiety we may feel on our trek is dwarfed by what lies ahead for them, yet they remain uniquely calm. It's their inner journey too...
