“Being” along a river…

Mekong River, Laos – The adventure is commencing. Initial destination Laos (pronounced Lau-ow, and many other ways), a country of 7m people being “modernised” by the western (& Chinese) obsession with economic growth; new roads and bridges are creating an (enviable?) economic highway in IndoChina, with scant observance of the initial creeping transference of a greed culture.



The “Laos Country” gateway – Chiang Rai, Thailand, a city of 1.2m people that Lonely Planet helpfully states has “no tourist attractions”. The night market begs to differ, a surreal combination of tourist gift “tax” opportunities and self service food stalls with many wonderful and appetising delicacies, some more suitable for “I’m a Celebrity…”. The central tabled area featured a surreal remake of Stamford Bridge; Didier Drogba on a giant HD screen, while enjoying a refreshing Singha! Leaving early the next morning to join the convoy of “private” transfers to Chiang Khong, LP’s statement was further belittled – a huge red orb of a rising sun, reflected into the brilliant green hue of horizon filling rice fields. Beauty at its finest…

Entering Laos prepares you for their laid back lifestyle of “Being”. Fourfold queues to obtain a visa generates comical mutters as agitated western business brains suggest “process improvements”.

The Mekong River is the true gateway to gently enter a new culture, two days cruising through massively generous scenery, where the real stress is one of camera overload – the perfect picture is elusive and continually escalating opportunities present themselves. A stop at Ban Gon Dturn, a Hmong village by the river, highlights an existing culture based on agriculture and crafts. Many young children throng to greet the boat, displaying their handwoven bracelets with their captivating smiles. I purchased two, for once deliberately overpaying by 4x; it seemed appropriate for it to be my first tourist “rip-off”.

So we sit back, relax, enjoy the views, and pretend that “doing” the best picture is really an opportunity for “being”. Time for a Beer Lao…