Re-learning the Green Cross Code

Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam – Vietnam is part of the South-East Asian economic “miracle”. Arising from the 1990 decision to pursue a market economy within a communist regime, yearly GDP growth since that point has been 6-8%, the only red flag (apart from the national one) being an eye watering Inflation Rate of 16.4% in Feb 2012.

Ho Chi Minh City feels different – more people, more activity, more frenetic, more building works, more skyscrapers… The Bitexco Financial Tower was “topped out” barely a year ago, 72 floors, the tallest building in the city, with a striking resemblance to the Sail of the Burg in Dubai, also sporting its own helipad platform – tennis anyone? Saigon as was, still is to many, and is officially the name of Ho Chi Minh City’s “District 1”, which encompasses the financial district and its “resplendent” opulence of Gucci, Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Burberry… it’s a neon city with helpful western muzak everywhere; it reminds me of the change when Moscow and East Berlin were “transformed”.

“History is written by the Victors”

Vietnam is one of those places where a contemporary history plays out in our own lifetime - The “American War” (as it is known here). This poignant quote of unclear origin (but often associated with George Orwell or Winston Churchill) has added immediacy. The “War Remnants Museum” (presented by the Ho Chi Minh City Department of “Culture, Sports & Tourism”) is the first real demonstration of “communist propaganda” we’ve experienced in IndoChina - first exhibit “Historical Truth”. However it is also a fascinating, deeply moving and very troubling exhibition. My primary emotion circled around the horror and pointless nature of war; there are never truly any winners, the consequences always dominate, and the common man suffers. In truth I’d missed the French intervention post-WW2 to re-establish “IndoChine”, which lead to the 1954 Geneva Accord that separated North & South Vietnam along the 17th parallel. The exhibition “missed” any reference to an invasion of the South in 1965 or the consequent “Boat People” tragedy in 1975, preferring to talk in terms of a liberating army from the “South Vietnam Puppet Government” – fascinating to see those exact words on numerous wall charts. Somewhat perversely, Vietnam is now courting Western & particularly American favour – Clinton lifted economic sanctions in 1994, cemented by a 2000 visit. Vietnam (as are all in IndoChina) is wary of China, referred to as “Big” Brother… a series of autocratic moves, particularly in damming the Mekong, has created unease… bigger brothers can often be bullies too.

So what of Saigon today? It thrives with street vendors, a bustling Chinatown, markets… a popular tourist sport is to walk the tightly packed market aisles, 2+ feet wide, where local vendors assault you, trying to put shirts on your back! I’ve renewed my long-lost love affair with “rocket fuel”, Vietnamese coffee – strong black iced coffee, with condensed milk to flavour. The flower stalls everywhere… it’s a beautiful and bustling city – did I mention the traffic?

Those of us “of an age” may remember Tufty or a jolly Green Giant, a superhero proclaiming road safety for UK citizens: The Green Cross Code – Stop, Look, Listen, Think! In Saigon, “Think” turns into raw “Panic”. At each junction you are faced by a seething mass of carnivorous scooters – there’s no let-up, they are always there, mystically appearing before your eyes with bared fangs. We were advised by locals on how to cross the road and I’m afraid Tufty will be turning in his squirrel grave: Step out SLOWLY into the traffic, keep moving slowly and evenly forward. Do NOT speed up, and NEVER turn back. Occasionally pause if deemed “necessary”… strangely, it works. As you enter the abyss, the scooter sea parts giving you a small channel like the bow of a breaking wave in which to continue. The “slowly” allows the scooter cavalry to sense where the gap around you may be and gently alter course to pass in front or behind you (all at top speed of course). It’s a heart-in-the mouth experience… but the alternative of waiting for a Green Superhero is clearly a cartoon fable!

Saigon retains a lot of its fabled allure and romance. It’s a city re-discovering itself, creating a new history, while living within its own past. I met and spoke with Mr Duong Van Ngo, a wonderful stately gentlemen of 80 who sits each day in his designated seat at the Saigon Post Office, helping local people to read, or simply go about their business in the post office. He has worked in this supremely grand building (it reminds me of Grand Central Station in NYC) for 60 years, the last two decades as a volunteer post-retirement. His english is cultured and he emanates a calm and sincere grace that inspired me. Duong will have met & helped many people over the years – I would love to spend hours listening; I wonder what stories he has to tell?